Archive for April 4th, 2012

Under the assumption that nothing exceeds like excess, we offer this, our rendition of ubercarne. If you can find fresh morels, the aroma will be heightened, but dried morels are wonderful as well and are a compromise only when compared to fresh. Plus they have the advantage of producing a concentrated soaking liquid that adds flavor to the stuffing when reduced. To get a jump on the meal, assemble the tenderloin ahead, refrigerate it for a day or more, and then grill it just before serving.

Prep: 25 minutes (plus 5 minutes for rub)
Rest before grilling: 10 minutes
Grill: About 25 minutes.

– Long-handled tongs
– Heavy-duty cotton kitchen twine.

Gas: Direct heat, medium-high (450°F)
Clean, oiled grate
Direct heat, light ash
12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)
Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting
Direct heat, light ash
12-by-12-inch bed, 3 to 4 inches deep
Clean, oiled grate set 2 inches above the fire.

6 ounces fresh morels, or 1 ounce dried morels, soaked in hot water and drained
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 plum tomato, finely chopped
1 cup beef broth or mushroom soaking liquid, if using dried morels
Kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste
4 ounces pâté de foie gras or goose liver pâté, broken or cut into pieces
1 trimmed beef tenderloin, about 5 pounds,
2 tablespoons Tuscan Rosemary Rub
Oil for coating grill grate.

1. Heat the grill as directed.
2. Chop the morels coarsely. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, garlic, and rosemary and sauté until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato and mushrooms and sauté until the vegetables soften, about 3 minutes. Add the broth or soaking liquid and simmer until the liquid is absorbed. Season with salt and pepper. Cool until barely warm, and stir in the pâté.
3. Make a lengthwise slit about halfway through the tail end of the tenderloin about 4 inches from the end, right where the meat tapers. Tie the wide end (butt end) with kitchen twine to make a neat, cylindrical shape. Fold in the tail end and tie it in place so that the tenderloin is uniformly shaped from end to end, to help it cook evenly.
4. To make a hole down the center of the tenderloin that you can stuff, position a sharpening steel at the thicker end of the tenderloin and push it through until its tip comes out the other side. Remove the steel. Insert a long, thin-bladed knife into the hole made by the steel several times, making short slits to enlarge the hole.
5. Stand the tenderloin on end and spoon the morel mixture into the hole, packing it down with the steel or the handle of a wooden spoon. When you’ve used about half of the stuffing, turn the tenderloin over and fill it from the other side.
6. Put the beef on a sheet of plastic wrap and rub the exterior with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle with the rosemary rub and roll it around until coated. Wrap in the plastic and set aside for 10 minutes.
7. Brush the grill grate and coat it with oil. Put the tenderloin on the grill, cover, and cook until browned on 4 sides, 6 to 7 minutes per side. Check the temperature with an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thicker end; it should register 125°F for medium-rare. If your grill has an external temperature gauge, it should stay at around 400°F.
8. Transfer the beef to a carving board; let rest for 5 minutes. Slice into ½-inch-thick slices and serve.

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